The flight was crowded, which surprised me. Two weeks ago, my flight to Istanbul was only half full. One of the flight attendants told me, however, that this is the beginning of “cruise ship season” and every port city in Europe will be like this until October. I think if I ever come back, I’ll push my dates back to April – I could definitely do without the crowds. And I couldn’t believe how much luggage these cruise ship passengers brought – some couples had up to 6 large bags! Ye gods!

Soon my Delta flight was winging its way back to the states and I was on my way home. I will never forget my time here, though, and the wonderful memories I have of this incredible country!

You can tell when you’re getting close to the Egyptian Spice Market in Istanbul – the smell of cloves and cumin and cardamom just about knocks you over. Once you enter, the visual effects add to the aromas. Everywhere you look are heaping piles of spices in all colors – golds, browns, reds and greens. Some of the vendors sold teas as well and their lemon and orange fragrances added to the intoxicating scents. You could also buy teapots and glasses, cheeses – even henna for dying your hair or decorating your body. I wandered through the small aisles, drinking in the heady aromas and finally settled down at a stall that seemed to be selling mostly to locals. I picked up some spices and teas to take back with me.

The Sulemaniye Mosque was nearby so I headed there next. The mosque is in a larger walled complex with lots of grass and trees. I stopped off first to visit Sulemaniye’s tomb, which is in a separate room. The tomb is nothing ornate as you can see – all of the tombs I have seen like this have a similar “roof” on top.

Once at the mosque, I had to borrow one of the scarves left there for visitors to cover my head. Leaving my shoes also outside, I headed on it, right behind a German guy wearing a skirt. Since both men and women must have their knees and shoulders covered, you must wrap a long skirt around you if you’re wearing shorts. The mosque was beautiful and much less crowded than the Blue Mosque. Visitors had to stay behind the barricades that separate the praying area, but we could still see the large expanse.

After visiting the mosque, I walked down the hill to the Emininou harbor area and caught the tram back to Sultanachmet. I grabbed a quick lunch at an outside cafe (today was “kofta” – meatballs made of minced lamb). As I walked across the park towards the hotel, I noticed a group of men congregating by a small camii. Just then, the call to prayer came across the loudspeaker. The call to prayer is heard at dawn, at midday, about the middle of the afternoon, just after sunset, and at night fall about two hours after sunset. However, on Friday, the obligatory congregational call to prayer around midday means that Muslims come together to pray. Dozens of men hurried over, removed their shoes and then laid out their prayer rugs to kneel on. While the prayer continued, the men knelt or sat and listened. One family walked over together but the husband left to pray and his wife had to sit on the side with their son. It seemed ironic that this woman who is so overtly religious in her attire is not allowed to pray with the men.

I had to go back to the hotel to change my room – actually, to change my hotel. As I mentioned earlier, I had mixed up my dates and the Hanedan did not have a room for me the last night. However, they were nice enough to find me a room at the Hotel Emre, which was about 20 feet down the street. They even carried all my luggage over to the hotel. My new room was smaller but had a TV and 2 twin beds. I left my spice purchases behind and headed out again to the Grand Bazaar.

The Grand Bazaar was fairly easy to get to – it’s right off the Beyazit exit if you take the tram. The bazaar was just as overwhelming today as it was yesterday – vendors were chanting about their “deals” and trying to draw tourists into their shops by asking questions. It’s easy to get lost in here – in fact, it’s part of its charm. I deliberately headed into the maze and didn’t emerge for several hours. By 6 pm, I had bought several charming items and was ready to sit in a cafe and watch the rest of the world shop. After resting over a glass of tea, I headed back to the hotel – I was meeting Robert and his family for dinner.

My friends from Hawaii and the Philippines, Robert, his wife Natalia and her cousin Alicia, were back from Izmir and Cappadocia, so we had arranged to meet that evening. Mindy, Natalia’s sister, didn’t join us but the 4 of us headed for a nearby restaurant. My chicken dish was very good and the wine was the best I’ve had since I got to Turkey. We all discussed our forays into the country and promised to exchange emails and photos after we got back.

Tomorrow – goodbye to Turkey…

There were taxis waiting at the bus stop and one was happy to take me to my hotel (although I had to direct him after we got to Sultanachmet, which made me feel pretty cool – like I was a native!). Since it was only 6:30 am, I had to wait to check in, but left my luggage there and was soon wandering through the early morning city. There’s nothing like watching a huge city like Istanbul wake up in the morning (if indeed it ever sleeps). The air was fresh and cool and there were no monstrous tour buses barreling down the street. I stopped for coffee and a pastry at a little cafe and sat and enjoyed the morning. Later, after a brief outing at my favorite internet cafe, the Otantik, which is the only one I’ve found that has an English keyboard, I headed back to the hotel to check in and take a shower.

The plan was to just wander and shop the last 2 days. The first place I headed was the Beyoglu district near Taksim Square. This is the heart of the city and the crowds are enormous, but some of the best shopping is around here. I took the tram to the Kabatas stop, then got out and switched to the funicular, which takes you up to Taksim Square (which sits at the top of a very high hill). The funicular was extremely interesting – a huge piece of machinery sits at the top and uses cables to pull the cars up to the top. After I reached the square, I headed down Istiklal Caddesi (Caddesi means “street”), which is the main drag in this area, and wandered into the shops and restaurants that line the street. The main street is a huge bustling affair but it’s easy to head off into the narrow little alleys and side streets that connect to it.

I was getting hungry so I stopped at a small place that was cutting off chunks of juicy lamb for doner kebabs. Two women were in front of me, and I simply pointed to what they were eating and say, “For me, too!” The cook laughed and made me an incredible sandwich with lamb, fresh tomatoes and peppers and a sprinkling of salt and spices tucked inside a dense mound of fresh Turkish pita bread – but like no pita bread I’ve ever had in the states! I was in heaven – and floating even higher when I stopped to get some ice cream for dessert. The blackberry and blueberry combination was the perfect ending. I even got to watch a large truck try to maneuver through a tiny alley and send some scaffolding flying. There were about 8 men on the street all directing this driver and telling him exactly what to do to get out of the mess he was in. It took about 20 minutes and pedestrian traffic was blocked during the whole time.

I finally made it to the bottom of the hill (by the way, I just found out today that Istanbul has 7 hills – just like Cincinnati and Rome) and grabbed a tram. Rather than heading back, I took the tram going in the opposite direction and got off at the Grand Bazaar. I didn’t want to buy anything today, but just get an idea of where things were. However, one step in the bazaar and I realized that it would take months, if not years, to learn where everything is. The streets are fairly well marked but the visual sensation is just plain overwhelming. Gold and silver and rugs and jewelry and ceramics and dishes and food – the saying is that if you can’t find it here, it doesn’t exist. I believe it!

Leaving the bazaar, I wound my way back to the area behind the Blue Mosque that houses the Arasta Bazaar. This is a smaller area but the salespeople are a little more low-key and the quality of goods a bit higher. One shop held beautiful Iznik tiles and ceramics. Around the 16th century, Iznik was the foremost place for mosaic tiles and ceramics in Turkey, including the most beautiful mosques and Topkapi Palace. The tiles here were reproductions but were still beautiful. I also found a shop that had some beautiful textiles, hundreds of years old. The clerk was extremely enthusiastic and let his dinner grow cold while he unveiled dozens of beautiful wall hangings and garments. He knew there was no hope of me buying them – some costs thousands of dollars – but did it for the sheer love of these pieces. I haven’t had this much fun with textiles since I was working as a costumer!

By this time, my feet were killing me – after the walking I did in Izmir and today, I couldn’t face going too far to eat so I picked a restaurant close to the hotel. I generally tried to avoid this area as the food is geared more towards tourists. While eating my dinner, I met a couple from Canada who were visiting Turkey on their way to Cyprus. The man’s brother had recently retired there from England. We spent about half an hour chatting over wine and dessert then I headed back to my oh-so-comfy bed…

Tomorrow – my last full day in Turkey.

My two acquaintances from San Francisco came up shortly afterwards and we chatted briefly. I gave them my ripped-out pages from Lonely Planet and the Rough Guide for Fethiye and a few other places, since they’d lost a portion of their guidebook. After that, I checked out and made a mad dash for the otogar with my luggage – I was hoping to catch the 9 am minibus to Izmir. 15 minutes later, I was on my way in a very nice minibus – a far cry from the one that brought me to Selcuk. This one was air-conditioned and had single seats with individual vents.

It took about 50 minutes to get to Izmir, and the minibus dropped us all off at the giant otogar on the outskirts of town. This place was huge – about the size of a small airport. The first place I headed was the Varan ticket counter as I wanted to book my bus ticket to Istanbul. The ticket clerk didn’t speak much English and had to enlist the help of some of the other agents to figure out exactly when I wanted to leave. After that was settled, it was determined that they had a couple of seats left on the 11 pm bus, so I paid my 48 lira and got my ticket. The agent then offered to keep my luggage there until the bus left that evening. He told me to be back by 10:20 pm for the minibus to take me to the big bus. Hey, I would have done anything to get rid of that luggage for awhile!

After that, I headed for the entrance to try and find some transport into the city. I checked both Lonely Planet and Rough Guide, and the only bus they agreed on that led to the city center was number 54, which was nowhere to be found. So that left a bunch of different other bus numbers to choose from. Rough Guide said that nos. 601-609 led to the train station, which was near to where I wanted to go. Since I saw one approaching, I jumped on then grabbed my map and tried to get my bearings by figuring out where the bus was going.

Have I mentioned the biggest drawback to European cities? None of them believe in street signs. They all seem to feel that it’s acceptable to have an occasional sign plastered to the side of a building that no one can see – in other words, you’re out of luck. For about 10 minutes I tried in vain to spot a street sign – my next move was to ask the bus driver if he was going to Basmane Station. He shook his head. Ack – now I was panicking slightly! I was afraid that we were heading outside the city and I would be lost in the depths of the hilltop suburbs, never to be seen again. However, my seat companion grabbed my map and assured me that we would be going to the train station. Her confidence assured me, even though I had no frigging idea what she was saying, so I sat back and looked at the scenery.

The city here is very modern – all the old stuff was destroyed in earthquakes so the buildings are fairly new. The houses are interesting – some of them are very nice and sit next to buildings that are one step away from condemnation. I think the standards must be pretty low, though, since even the worst houses obviously have people living in them. Some of the houses are perched on rocky cliffs and look like a good stiff wind would blow them off. We soon were nearing the city and I saw a sign indicating that Basmane Station was to the right. The bus, however, zoomed off to the left, leaving the train station behind. I jumped out of my seat and the woman next to me grabbed my hand, again assuring me (I think) that she would tell me when to get off.

A few stops later she nudged me and I obediently exited, then stood on the sidewalk like a lost soul while I tried to find where I was on my map. I soon determined that I was a very long way from the train station. New rule – never trust a person sitting next to you on a bus. The woman was obviously after my seat and misled me in order to appropriate it at the first opportunity. So now I was in a strange section of town and had no idea how to get back. I thought about grabbing a cab, but I can be somewhat stubborn about transport sometimes. I hate to give in and have someone else find something for me that I should have found for myself.

At any rate, I started walking in the direction of the city center when I saw a subway entrance ahead. Hmmm…. a quick look at the map told me that the subway line went right to where I wanted to go – hooray! 10 minutes later, I blissfully exited at the right stop and heading down to the Agora, the market place of ancient Smyrna (now known as Izmir). Constructed during the rule of Alexander the Great, the Agora is mostly in ruins today but it was still impressive.

After the Agora, I headed for Izmir’s covered bazaar area. It’s somewhat smaller than Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar but still a lot of fun to maneuver. I bought a few scarves and bargained the price down to what I wanted to pay, then stopped for some doner kebab at a little sidewalk stand. Next, I headed up the street to the harbor to see the boats. Along the way, I passed the Varan downtown ticket office on Gazi Osman Pasa Bulgan and inspiration struck (I do have these rare flashes of insight). Maybe I didn’t have to make my way back to the otogar on my own…

Sure enough, the agents inside were more than helpful. After I showed them my ticket, they told me that if I would come back at 10:15 pm, I could pick up a shuttle there that would transport me to the big bus. They even arranged to have my luggage sent over to the big bus so I didn’t have to stop at the otogar ticket office. What a company! They can have my business anytime (well, when I’m in Turkey, that is).

After leaving Varan, I strolled around the city, occasionally stopping in shops that looked interesting. It was a hot day, so I tried to find places that were out of the sun. After a while, I figured I’d head for an internet cafe so I looked for one that was listed in Lonely Planet. It took me awhile to find the right street then I spent about 30 minutes walking up and down looking for the darned place. None of the street venders I asked knew where it was either.

After about an hour of searching, I finally found another one a few blocks away thanks to a young boy. It felt very good to get out of the hot sun so I stayed awhile, posting and surfing. When I was there, I checked CNN and noted that there was a bombing in Izmir on Saturday and a huge rally on Sunday in support of secularism. Izmir is very secular (I had noticed that very few women were covered compared to other Turkish cities) and wants to keep the separation of church and state that is in place now.

Back on the streets, I saw the many street vendors. They are all over Turkey and sell the most wonderful things. You can get anything from a cell phone to a fresh roll straight from the oven. There are also shoe shine men all over the place. Their equipment is made of brass and looks extremely ornate – each shoe shine man has the same identical equipment. You can also find venders (and shops) selling jewelry and pieces containing a blue eye – this is supposed to ward off evil spirits. Every taxi and bus has a blue eye somewhere near the dashboard for good luck, and many shopkeepers give you a small blue eye attached to a safety pin when you buy something from them.

While I’m on the subject of streets, let me mention cars and pedestrians. Although pedestrians technically have the right of way on most streets, you would never know it. Cars honk constantly at pedestrians and seem to consider it a weakness to slow down for one. If you’re on a street and you see a car coming, you’d better book it like crazy for the other side because that car is aiming right for you. Of course, drivers don’t treat other drivers any better – if one car decides to pass another, it starts honking, which means, “Get out of my way because I’m coming through.” And it does – without fail.

After leaving the internet cafe, I wandered back down to the harbor and watched the sun setting over the water. There were lots of people out; many having dinner at the restaurants that abound on the wharf. I was afraid to go too far away since I wanted to make sure I could find the Varan office by 10:15 pm. I stopped for a quick dinner at a small pide restaurant nearby. I’ve mentioned the wonderful pides in Turkey – however, I didn’t mention the wonderful accompaniments. For example, when I ordered my pide in Izmir (minced lamb and cheese), I also got a plate of fresh arugala and tomatoes, and a small salad of greens, cucumbers and tomatoes – all included in the price of 5 lira for the pide (around $3.85). Add another .50 lira for the su (bottled water), and you have a complete filling meal for under $5.

It was soon time to head for the Varan office. I got there a little early and settled down to wait. Promptly at 10:15 pm, the shuttle bus pulled up and took us all to another stop where a massive Varan bus awaited. My luggage was nowhere to be found, however, and I started to panic. None of the bus personnel spoke English, but one of them sensed that I was losing it and grabbed one of the passengers who translated. It turned out that the shuttle from the otogar was on its way with my luggage (and the rest of the passengers).

By 11 pm, the bus was ready to go and I was congratulating myself on picking Varan. This was the top of the line – luxurious padded reclining seats with music and headsets and a pillow! The best thing about this bus is that the trip is non-stop – no pulling into stops at 2 am with the lights blazing away. The attendant came around with tea and juice and announced he would be serving breakfast at 5:30 am. We got underway and I settled back with my pillow and believe it or not, I actually got some sleep! Woohoo – this is the bus for me! It was a bit more expensive but worth every penny!

Varan is also a bit more sophisticated in its seating arrangements – I think I mentioned before (or maybe I didn’t) that men and women who are not related are not allowed to sit next to each other on the bus. This is why they always ask your name when you buy a ticket. If a man has bought a seat, only another man can be seated next to him – and the same goes for women. Varan, however, is an indiscriminate bus company – and in fact, seated me next to a Turkish guy in his 20′s.

Tomorrow – back to Sultanachmet Square in Istanbul.

The Hotel Akay arranged for a driver to come and take me to Ephesus. I could have walked it – it’s only 3 km – but I wanted to get there as soon as it opened to avoid the tour groups. The hotel clerk – a lovely young woman – also lent me a book on Ephesus to read for background information. The driver let me off near the second ticket office at the Magnesian Gate, which allowed me to walk downhill through all the ruins rather than uphill. I got there around 8:40 am, 10 minutes after it opened, and was amazed at how many people were already there. However, the advantage of being a solo traveler is that you can work with or against the crowd – and I’m a master at slipping around tour groups and getting off on my own.

I could go on and on about Ephesus, but will inject just a few historical bits here. The city originated several hundred years BC and was rebuilt several times. The population was in the range of 400,000 to 500,000 inhabitants in the year 100 AD, making it the largest city in the Roman empire at that time. The city was distinguished for the Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders of the World), for the Library of Celsus, and for its theatre, capable of holding 25,000 spectators. This open-air theatre was used initially for drama, but during later Roman times gladiatorial combats were also held on its stage, with the first archaeological evidence of a gladiator graveyard found in May 2007. The city was relegated to a small village when the harbor filled in with silt from the Kaystros river in the 8th century, and was completely abandoned by the 15th century. Ephesus was an important center for early Christianity and both Paul and the Apostle John spent time writing and preaching there. In addition, a nearby house is believed to have been the last home of Mary.

Historical info aside, the site was just amazing! It is huge with ruins extending as far as the eye can see. The terraced houses take you into the rich families’ homes with unique mosaics and frescos, and the Library of Celsus alone is worth the price of admission. I have GOT to get these photos uploaded! It took me about 3 hours to go through the whole area and I probably would have stayed longer if it wasn’t so hot. The sun really beats down against that white stone (and the people standing on the white stone). After I was finished, I headed out the entrance and saw some ruins with a small sign saying “Tomb of St. Luke.” It was a small forlorn pile of stones surrounded by wildflowers. I don’t think it’s the real grave of St. Luke – I looked it up and he is supposed to be buried in Padua (although he was originally buried at the Church of the Holy Apostles in Istanbul – now the Fatih Cami, which I walked by while I was there). I’ve always like St. Luke, especially after reading The Silver Chalice.

After leaving Ephesus, I had planned to walk back but the heat was getting to me. So when a cab pulled up and asked me if I wanted a ride, I asked, “How much”? He responded, “15 lira but for you, 10!” Wow, what a bargain – 10 lira to drive me 2 miles. I declined and he asked how much I would pay. I held up 3 fingers and we wound up settling on 5 lira. After getting back to the hotel, I jumped online – I was changing my itinerary again. I was enjoying my stay in Selcuk, but after seeing Ephesus, there wasn’t a whole lot to do unless I took more 4-5 hour bus trips to the outlying area. Therefore, I decided to leave a day early and head for Izmir, where I would catch an overnight bus to Istanbul, arriving Thursday morning.

You may recall that I had sworn I would never take a night bus again, but logistically it makes sense. It’s a lot cheaper than flying and is a lot less hassle. Plus this time I was upgrading to the top of the line Varan bus line.

Before heading back out again, I spoke to the hotel clerk. I had been wanting to discuss my room with her as it was lacking in some amenities that were advertised by the hotel, i.e., hair dryer, TV, etc. She told me that there were actually 2 different sections to the hotel – a cheaper no-frills section and a deluxe area. I explained that if I had known I could upgrade for a mere 15 lira I would have done so. I wasn’t trying to get another room since I would be leaving the next day, but she was nice enough to switch me to the deluxe room for the same price as the one I had been in – 35 lira. This new room was wonderful – bigger, nicer and a stone’s throw away from the gorgeous pool.

She told me they would make the switch later that afternoon when I got back, so I headed over to the Ephesus Museum in town. This is where many of the artifacts and sculptures are located that were found at the Ephesus site. I’m glad I waited to see the museum after seeing Ephesus as it meant a lot more. Many of the pieces were huge but some were tiny with great detail. After seeing the Ephesus exhibit, I went over to another section of the museum that was an exhibition on gladiators. The gladiator graves discovered at Ephesus have told scientists a great deal about the lifes (and deaths) of the gladiators from that period. The exhibit showed photographs of the skeletons and how forensic scientists and anthropologists have worked to determine the manner of death, their diet, and many other fascinating facts.

After the exhibit, I stopped by Tugba, which is considered one of the best sources of Turkish delight and tried a couple of samples. I couldn’t decide between the the ones stuffed with pistachio or the fruit-flavored ones, so I bought some of both. The store makes its own Turkish delight and it is delicious! Next I headed back to the hotel and switched my room, which took about 5 minutes. After that I had a quick swim in the pool to cool off. A small group of people on a tour came up as I finished and I had a beer with them. Several of them were from San Francisco and the rest from Australia and New Zealand. After they left, 2 women stopped over who were staying in the room next to me and we talked for awhile. Coincidentally, they were also from San Francisco and were traveling by themselves (although they were taking small tours here and there). As it turned out, they were traveling to Fethiye next and would be staying in the same hotel I stayed in – the Villa Daffodil. They were happy to hear the rave reviews I gave.

After my swim, I went for a 4 km walk along a shaded tree-lined path. It was a popular spot for runners and walkers, and there were many out for an evening stroll. I passed the Temple of Artemus on my walk – it seemed strange to see it just off the side of the road. It’s also a little sad that one of the Seven Wonders of the World is reduced to just a single column in a dirt field. Afterwards, I went back to the hotel for dinner on the roof terrace. I was the only human up there (besides the staff) but a calico cat came and joined me. I’m sure it was my personality that attracted it and not the pieces of fish I threw in its direction. The dinner was wonderful – fish and bulgar and some wonderful mezes (appetizers). Plus I got to see the sun set over the distant mountains as I sipped my wine. All in all, a perfect evening…

My feline friend accompanied me back to my room and seemed somewhat insulted when I refused to let it inside. I tried to watch some TV but all I could find were Turkish channels so I soon gave up and went to bed.

Tomorrow – a day in Izmir, a night on the bus…

We were soon on the road to Aydin, where I would then change buses to Selcuk. The first portion of the journey was beautiful – we drove past gorgeous deep blue inlets and bays, and then headed up into the mountains. The rest of the trip was sort of a blur as I was pretty tired and the sun was making me sleepy. We pulled into the bustling Aydin otogar station around 3 pm and I grabbed my luggage and looked for the Selcuk minibus. It was around the corner – unfortunately it wasn’t leaving for another 45 minutes so I took a seat and waited. Eventually it was time to board. By this time, I’d learned one of the first lessons you should know when riding a dolmus – always sit near a window. Turks will rarely open the windows in buses even in 90 degree weather – which is why I sit near the window so that I have control of the air.

This ride was long and excrutiating – it was only about 50 minutes in length but seemed like 5 hours. The bus was cramped, very hot and smelled of male Turkish body odor. In addition, the bus driver felt compelled to honk his horn in greeting at every single passerby and bus. We were listening to honks every 30 seconds or so. To make matters worse, he stuck his head out the window every few feet or so to look for additional people to honk at. I appreciated the fact that he was friendly but by the end of the ride, I was ready to throw something at him, the horn, or the bus – or all three. During the last 20 minutes of the ride, one of the men on board decided he needed to get some groceries. He muttered a few words to the driver, who immediately zipped across to the other side of the highway and pulled into a little grocer. The passenger ran in then came out about 5 minutes later with a bag of bread. Everyone else seemed to take it in stride and I tried to curb my irritation. The bread did smell good – it must have been fresh out of the oven.

Eventually we pulled into Selcuk and I paid my 5 lira. As I retrieved my luggage I was immediately accosted by several men who assured me that their hotels were better than any of the others. I managed to ignore them and found a young man who pointed me in the direction of the Hotel Akay where I had made a reservation the day before. One taxi driver offered to drive me there for 5 lira and as I was debating whether to accept, I noticed a sign that the hotel was only 200 m. away. The hotel is on a quiet street near Ayasoluk Hill, the site of the tomb of St. John the Evangelist and his Basilica. After checking in around 5 pm, I headed up towards Ayasoluk Hill and toured the grounds. St. John died here in 100 AD and the Byzantine emperor Justinian built a huge basilica to honor him. The basilica was destroyed in the 1400′s by Mongols but much of the site has been restored by a religious foundation based in Lima, Ohio.

After that, I headed down and explored the town and had a bite to eat at a small family-owned restaurant named Seckin Cigerci that seemed to be feeding mostly locals (which is always a good sign). My next stop was Tugba, which makes Turkish delight in all flavors. I didn’t buy anything today but did try a couple of samples – one with lemon and one with walnuts. Both were delicious and I can see why Tugba has received national awards for its Turkish delight. I walked around, enjoying the sights. Selcuk is home to a Byzantine aqueduct, which now serves as a nesting place for storks. They return here year after year to lay their eggs in April and May and then stay through September.

Back at the hotel, I went up on the terrace and had a glass of wine – there is nothing like sitting up high watching the stars with a cool breeze and Turkish music playing lightly in the background. Even the occasional cat came up for the atmosphere (I’m sure it had nothing to do with the crumbs that may have fallen from the breakfast tables). Soon it was time for bed.

Tomorrow – Ephesus!

As we got underway, I began chatting with some of my companions. A mother and daughter who were sitting next to me were from Bristol, England – the daughter had recently built a house here and was talking about how cheap everything was here compared to the UK. Another woman from Liverpool and I were discussing place names and she was raving over the names of U.S. cities like “Cincinnati” and “Minneapolis.” Hmmmm….. I guess I don’t appreciate our names. On the other hand, I like the English names like Blubbermouth and Tissington.

One woman from Europe evidently assumed the boat allowed topless sunbathing and immediately pulled off her bikini top before laying on the mat. The rest of the Europeans took it in stride although no one followed her example. Our first stop was Gocek, a market town about 30 minutes from Fethiye across the water. About half the passengers got off to shop and we would pick them up later in the afternoon. I chose to stay on board.

The rest of the day was heaven – serenity in a tropical paradise! The boat stopped at a number of small islands in the sea. A few had beaches and we got off and strolled on the sand, then waded out to sea. Several islands had no beach and contained only rocky ledges – there we just swam off the boat. The water was glorious – deep blue, cold and clear, but warming up almost instantly once you were immersed. Just about everyone swam and had a wonderful time. One Turkish man who spoke very good English (he proudly informed me that he learned “American” English) told me to watch out for the sea urchins on the rocks underneath the water. Sure enough, I could see the little devils clustered under the water. Those needles would be painful so I made sure to wear my sandals when I was around the rocks.

Lunch was fresh fish (with the head on), green salad and bread. I sat with my Turkish acquaintance and a German couple (well, she’s Dutch but lives in Germany). They were heading to Cappadocia soon so I told them some of the highlights of my stay. After lunch, we lazed around on board for a bit before swimming again – this time on a beach that contained some old Roman ruins. Soon we were headed back to Gocek to pick up the rest of the passengers who informed us that the market there was not worth going to! There was one more swimming stop after that, but most of us were content by this time to just relax on the deck and sleep in the afternoon sun.

After getting back to Fethiye around 6 pm, I walked to a little travel agency near the tourist information center to buy my bus ticket. The prices still continue to amaze me – 17 lira ($13) for a 4.5 hour luxury bus trip (including refreshments) plus a pickup from my hotel. Next I stopped off for a quick cheese and sausage pide then went for my nightly foray to Özsüt (which is a Turkish pastry chain) for a pastry and cappucino. Did I mention coffee in Turkey? Sadly, this country has one drawback – lack of good coffee. Of course, the Turks invented Turkish coffee, which is something special in itself. But sometimes I just want a cup of good strong black coffee – and it’s just about impossible to find here. The closest most places come is Nescafe – and that’s just not close enough. So I’m constantly hunting down coffee shops and Özsüt makes a great cappucino (and wonderful pastries – better than the Bon Bonerie!).

After heading back to the hotel to pack, I ran into Burkhard and Ulle and invited them for a drink on the terrace where we had one last chat. Finally I headed for bed. However, as I got ready I realized that I had a pretty serious sunburn from my 2 days on the beach and the boat. I DID use sunscreen – LOTS of it! This sun is just so bright and hot, though, and my skin so light that it must have been an open invitation. Hopefully it won’t be too bad tomorrow.

And speaking of tomorrow – I leave Fethiye and head to Ephesus…

First I had to find the dolmus station – I knew the general area but could not find the actual place. Finally, I stopped a man walking with his son and asked him. He not only told me – he reversed his direction and guided me 3 blocks away to the station, then made sure I could find the right minibus. The Turks are the most agreeable people – I have never had anyone turn me down when I asked for help. Three lira later, I was heading down the road to the beaches at Oludeniz, which is about 15-20 minutes away.

Part of this area is extremely built up – a lot of Germans and Brits are buying up vacation property because the area is relatively inexpensive compared to their own countries. Consequently, the main beach is packed with pale bodies baking in the sun. However, there is an area off to the rıght that is a bit more secluded – a lagoon that is reached by way of a stone pathway through a small park. There is a charge of a couple of lira to get in, so many people don’t bother.

Thıs lagoon was my destination. Once I got there, I found a spot on the beach for my stuff (I decided to forego the vinyl lounge chairs as I didn’t feel like paying 10 lira for the chair and umbrella) and plopped myself down. The lagoon was breathtakingly beautiful – a circle of deep blue water surrounded by a pebbly beach and a mountain backdrop. Most of the bathers in this area were Turks – in fact, I could see only one other body as white as mine.

The water was a bit brisk when I first jumped in, but quickly warmed up and I swam and splashed and had a great time playing in the ocean. I’m not much for laying out in the sun so after about an hour of sun and water, I packed up my gear and headed out. Before I left, I stopped at the free showers and washed the salt off (and all the tiny pebbles from the beach that had gotten inside my suit).

I managed to get a dolmus back to Fethiye fairly quickly – I was hungry but most of the restaurants in the Oludeniz area looked pretty touristy (I’m assuming that a restaurant that advertises “spaghetti” and “american burger” isn’t going to have authentic Turkish cuisine). As I was sitting in the minibus on my way back to Fethiye, a young teenage boy got on and sat down beside me. A few stops later, an elderly man got on the bus. The young teenager immediately got up and offered his seat to the older man. Again, it’s not a sight you would often see in this country.

After I got back to town, I had a quick lunch at the fish market. This is a large market where fisherman bring their catch in and sell it. You pick out a fish then take it to one of the nearby restaurants. The restaurant will then cook it for you and serve it, adding bread, salad and a drink – all for about $3. There’s nothing like fresh-caught fish. I must admit that I’m not wild about it being served with the head on, but it’s not that big a deal to cut it off and toss it to one of the nearby cats hovering around.

For my afternoon trek, I headed for another nearby town. The intent was to get to a nearby scenic area that contains a gorge. However, I got on the wrong minibus – then when I realized my error, got off at the wrong stop to go back to Fethiye. I wound up walking about 3 km. trying to find the right stop. I never did find it but I did find a Migros, the Turkish version of Kroger’s, so I decided to stop in and check it out (flexible is my middle name).

At first glance, it appears to be a regular supermarket – many of the brands are different of course, but I saw Lipton, Nescafe and Cascade, along with other familiar faces. Although the store seemed smallish by American standards, it had one aisle devoted to women’s and men’s clothing. I picked up a hat for my boat excursion planned for Sunday for around 2 lira, and a large tote bag for about 10. As I was preparing to leave, I passed by the pastry section – lo and behold, I spotted kunefe! Trying hard to restrain my drooling, I rushed over and bought a square – only 2.5 lira! A yummy treat for after dinner…

I still had the problem of how to figure out how to get back to town. The gods were with me that day, though – as I exited onto the street from the Migros parking lot, a bus pulled up for Fethiye and I jumped on board before it could get away. Unfortunately, although the dolmus was destined for Fethiye, its destination was not the part of town I knew. When I was the only passenger left, the driver made a motion that I should disembark. I frantically looked around for a familiar landmark and spotted nothing. There was no arguing with the driver (difficult to do when you do not share a common language) so I got off and starting walking towards what I thought might be the harbor.

Three blocks later, I was still in unfamiliar territory so I stopped a Turkish woman who steered me in the right direction to my hotel. Once I got there, I unloaded all my beach stuff and headed for the bar. As I sat at the bar with my glass of wine, a man next to me struck up a conversation. Burkhard was from Germany but has lived in Sweden for the last 15 years. I told him about my German ancestry and then relayed the story of “Over-the-Rhine,” the area of Cincinnati that has a connection to Germany. His wife, Ulli, came up shortly and the 3 of us chatted about Germany, the US and politics. They told me that they didn’t blame me for Bush (joke here – no political digs intended).

They invited me to dine with them at the hotel so we headed onto the terrace and had a wonderful meal and conversation. They have been to Turkey many many times and hope to retire here (for part of the year) in a few years. They introduced me to raki (the Turkish alcohol of choice – similar to ouzo but served in a tall glass with water) and Turkish coffee. I had drunk Turkish coffee before and couldn’t get past the first sip – however, I discovered the key is to add az şekerli (a “little sugar”) to the coffee. I never thought I’d be adding sugar to coffee, but in this case, it certainly makes Turkish coffee drinkable.

Burkhard told me stories of Germany when he was young (he apparently is in his early 60′s). His parents emigrated from east Germany after WWII and he was treated as a pariah in the western part of the country. He was forced to attend a refugee school rather than being taught with the other children and his family suffered poverty for many years. His wife is from the Cologne area, which is the other area where they plan to live after retirement. They also told me stories of Sweden and the horrors of the national health system run amuck.

My contribution consisted of stories of the American legal system, which seemed to interest them. They were amused to hear that many divorces take months and even years to settle – evidently in Sweden, the couple gets divorced first and then settles the property and custody issues. All in all, it was a fascinating evening and I enjoyed meeting them very much. We finally finished up around 1 am and all headed off to bed.

Tomorrow – a mini Blue Cruise where I head out for a day of island hopping.

She evidently thought I did a good job because every stop after that I was in charge of the baby. Neither I nor the baby could sleep so we just made faces at each other and looked out the window. The bus system is very strange in Turkey – there are many overnight buses but at every stop, the driver turns on all the lights. It’s like he’s trying to wake everyone up. They would also decide that 2 am was a good time to pass out tea and coffee – because I’m sure everyone was looking to ingest some caffeine at that time…

At any rate, we finally reached Antalya about 6 am. This was the crucial moment in my decision-making. I had been trying to decide whether to go to the Olympus/Cirali area and stay there a day or two before heading for Fethiye. However, in the end I decided that I didn’t want to be schlepping my luggage more than I had to, so I went ahead and got a ticket to Fethiye (as did the two Korean girls I was riding with) and planned to stay there 3 nights. We found a company selling tickets on a bus that was leaving at 7 am, so we headed back with the driver to put our luggage aboard.

We should have realized right away that this was not the typical luxury bus we had been on – the windshield had several cracks and newspaper lined the aisles. However, we gamely got on and sat down and were soon on our way. The bus was fairly empty at first but as it wound its way through the scenic mountains and valleys, it made periodic stops at small villages. This was obviously not an express bus. The local villagers continued to pile on bringing an array of assorted belongings with them. One man had 2 huge bags of oranges that must have weighed 50 lbs. each. At any minute, I expected to see someone get on with livestock.

The empty seat next to me was soon taken by a shriveled old woman wearing the typical cotton scarf, sweater, cardigan and Turkish pants. She told me (via pointing to her teeth) that she was going to the dentist in Fethiye, a distance of some 80 km. away. She grinned at my feeble attempts to speak Turkish and then started rooting around in her purse, a large beat-up red leather bag stamped “Gucci.” Eventually, she pulled out a plastic bag containing a mixture of unknown nuts and golden raisins. She forced open my hand and dumped a pile into it, indicating that I was to eat them.

Ignoring the thoughts of wanton bacteria running amuck, I gamely ate the mixture, which was actually pretty good. We were pals after that and she would occasionally chatter away to me, notwithstanding the fact that I had no idea what she was saying. I just smiled away, which seemed to be enough of a response for her.

Although the local bus was a far cry from the comfortable express I was used to, I wouldn’t have missed this trip for the world. I saw scenes that were priceless – at one stop, a woman pulled a wooden cart laden high with huge bundles tied in cloth. She was followed by a flock of sheep and then a herd of goats. A man, presumably her husband, brought up the rear.

The scenery was as incredible as the picturesque villages – mountains, some snow-capped, loomed all around together with pine trees and the occasional green valleys. Soon, the bus began letting off people so I assumed we were nearing Fethiye. Around 10:30 am, we got off at the small otogar on the outskirts of town, which meant I had 2 things to accomplish. Find a hotel. Figure out how to get there.

They both turned out easier than I thought. My Korean pals went off to a hostel someplace and I tried to find a phone to call one of the places listed in Lonely Planet. The shopkeeper who sells phonecards happened to be out of them, so he indicated that I could just use his phone. I called and made a reservation with the Villa Daffodil, then grabbed a taxi. It was worth the 7 lira not to have to deal with finding the correct dolmus to take into town.

The taxi drove down a street right along the harbor and let me off at the hotel. This place is beautiful – the hotel terrace directly overlooks the bay and mountains. Palm trees line the street, interspersed with lush colorful bougainvillea and azaleas. I checked in and decided to take a shower, then head into town. It’s a lovely walk from the hotel to town but the town also has a dolmus that does nothing but go back and forth along the harbor. It’s nice to have the option of riding, especially for only 1 lira.

I pretty much took it easy the rest of the day – I wandered around town and stopped at the ruins from ancient Roman times. Unfortunately, it’s not in very good shape and is further marred by the occasional graffiti. After a quick late lunch next to the water, I walked along the harbor and looked at all the beautiful yachts and boats scattered throughout the bay. The town is rather largish but has a wonderful relaxed atmosphere. Everyone is in low gear here and no one rushes to do anything.

The lack of sleep soon got to me and I made my way back to the hotel. However, I noticed some people up on the terrace talking and drinking, so I decided to have a glass of wine before going to bed. By this time, the sun had set and I sat and peacefully sipped my wine while gazing out onto the flickering lights and dark waters below.

Onward to bed – tomorrow, the beach!